Mountains of the Moon

The Mountains of the Moon look unearthly. That's why they're called Mountains of the Moon! Either totally covered in clouds, or with just their peaks showing above the clouds they're one of the highest rock masses in Africa featuring Africa's third highest peak, Margherita Peak at 5109m above sea level. Though from a landscape and vegetation point of view, it might even be a candidate for the most awe-inspiring mountain.

It's a nine day trek from hut to hut and it is absolutely doable as you're guided by professionals and supported by porters. Go with RTS. If you're not sure you can handle high altitudes (like me), pack Diamox.

The trek leads us through vastly varying vegetation layers, from a thick and jungle-like green, through bamboo forests, up to the unique afro-alpine zone until we finally reach the naked rocks and the glacier on the top of the mountain....

But first, get out of base camp and walk towards the clouds that seem to willingly conceal the mountains.

 

 

 A wildfire destroyed huge parts of the vegetation, so we walk through a misty and blackened scenery that reminds me so very much of a wetter version of Tolkien's Mordor:

Though soon, we seem to have entered beautiful and juicy green Ireland.

Sometimes it is almost as if the bog was alive and tries to snatch our boots away from us. Marylene's happy to have gotten away alive ;-)

 We reach high lakes steaming under the sun and generating even more clouds...

 ...but we're even faster and reach a pass at 4,400m before the clouds do :-)

 

 We find a cute Hyrax cuddling somewhere between the giant Lobelias...

...also Hyacinth, berries and [ Marylene, plesase fill in correct name :-/ ] are some of the many pretty and unique plants to encounter.

 

 

 

However, the higher we walk the friggin' colder it gets. Once the sun sets at around 7pm there's not much to do than cuddle up in your warm sleeping bag and wait for your eyes close.

But the next morning brings warm sunshine, yummie breakfast, hot tea, and great expectations for the next day!

...which might be very much disappointed if it rains :-(

Finally! Preparations for the final peak day. Some abseiling exercises, just in case.

 

Next day, after getting up at 4am and crumbling up and over rocks, we are rewarded with a great sunrise as we slowly walk with crampons below our feet and an ice ax in our hand over the glacier. Absolutely stunning and -literally- breathtaking.

 

 

 

After six days: The peak, yipphie! All pain, freezing, rain and weariness is forgotten and replaced by spectacular views into Congo :-D

 

 

Then, three days of descent until we reach safely -thanks to our great guides Benard, Uziah and Jimmy- back to our base camp. Time for a hot shower and a couple of days of barefoot :-)

The trek in legs and figures:

Day 1
From Kilembe base camp (1,450m) to Sine Camp (2,596m)
Distance: 10.2km
Duration: 5h

Day 2
From Sine Camp to Mutinda Cave Camp (3,688m)
Distance: 6.8km
Duration: 6h

Day 3
From Mutinda Cave Camp to Bugata Camp (4,062m)
Distance: 4.2km
Duration: 4.5h

Day 4
From Bugata Camp over Bamwanjara Pass (4,450m) then to Hunwick's Camp (3,974m)
Distance: 7.2km
Duration: 7h

Day 5
From Hunwick's Camp to Margherita Camp (4,485m)
Distance: 4.2km
Duration: 3.5h

Day 6
From Margherita Camp to Margherita Peak (5,109m!!) and back to Hunwick's Camp (3,974m)
Distance: 10.6km
Duration: 15h

Start at 4am
Peak at 10.30am
Descent from 11am to 4pm at Margherita Camp, 8pm at Hunwick's Camp

Day 7
From Hunwick's Camp over Bamwanjara Pass (4,450m) then to Bugata Camp (4,062m)
Distance: 7.2km
Duration: 5.5h

Day 8
From Bugata Camp to Kalalama Camp (3,147m)
Distance: 7.4km
Duration: 5h

Day 9
From Kalalama Camp back to Kilembe base camp (1,450m)
Distance:  11.6km
Duration: 4.5h