Some tidbits inbetween

Being on a business trip to Germany, attending a conference and some meetings one has to take the opportunity to buy some survival gear, right? Well, living in Africa you find out what's really important in life... for example chocolate cereal. Not only is there no such thing in the shelves of even the most sophisticated Ugandan supermarket, whatever is there is quadruple the price of Aldi, Lidl & Co. Hence, I feel compelled to stock up on this occasion and ... well you can see. But no worries, people already started staring at this strange guy when he kept piling up 20 cereal boxes in  his cart - not just when he had this picture taken ;-)

Reaching home I realise that I actually have the coolest dog TV channel. Just like Adrian likes getting hypnotised by the TV, his dog Timmy spends hours (!) watching his favourite programme: Rabbits in action. Rabbits eating, rabbits sitting, rabbits hopping, rabbits sniffing, rabbits drinking, rabbits showing him their bum and rabbits sticking their noses right against his through the mesh wire. He gets so enthralled you can see him trembling and even jumping to his feet from time to time: "...If I could only get to 'play' with them for real!!" :-o

Anyway, of course there is also a routine in life; and yet it is somehow different... as you never know what to expect when you enter a somewhat sophisticated and risky device such as an elevator. Yes, you wouldn't think much of it, would you? But as I enter this specific one, a piece of paper stuck to the wall catches my attention, and somehow - rather than instilling confidence and assurance - it provides for a hint of inquietude... Especially when considering the general unreliability of Ugandan networks and that Lucas and John might be busy, might be having a nap, might have lost their phone or have run out of battery :-/

  

But I survive this great peril - only to get caught in a much more insidious trap: The great Powerpoint pitfall. No more words to be said, there are enough on the screen already.

 

 Last but not least, something of a more official and yet not serious note: Big school assembly for the celebration of Uganda's 50th anniversary of the countries independence. Big, big event with great shows, songs, anthem performed by the kids etc.

Oh, PS and while talking about school... I think I haven't posted Adrian's last year's school report yet - featuring a surprisingly accurate self-analysis of his achievements and challenges :-)

Mountains of the Moon

The Mountains of the Moon look unearthly. That's why they're called Mountains of the Moon! Either totally covered in clouds, or with just their peaks showing above the clouds they're one of the highest rock masses in Africa featuring Africa's third highest peak, Margherita Peak at 5109m above sea level. Though from a landscape and vegetation point of view, it might even be a candidate for the most awe-inspiring mountain.

It's a nine day trek from hut to hut and it is absolutely doable as you're guided by professionals and supported by porters. Go with RTS. If you're not sure you can handle high altitudes (like me), pack Diamox.

The trek leads us through vastly varying vegetation layers, from a thick and jungle-like green, through bamboo forests, up to the unique afro-alpine zone until we finally reach the naked rocks and the glacier on the top of the mountain....

But first, get out of base camp and walk towards the clouds that seem to willingly conceal the mountains.

 

 

 A wildfire destroyed huge parts of the vegetation, so we walk through a misty and blackened scenery that reminds me so very much of a wetter version of Tolkien's Mordor:

Though soon, we seem to have entered beautiful and juicy green Ireland.

Sometimes it is almost as if the bog was alive and tries to snatch our boots away from us. Marylene's happy to have gotten away alive ;-)

 We reach high lakes steaming under the sun and generating even more clouds...

 ...but we're even faster and reach a pass at 4,400m before the clouds do :-)

 

 We find a cute Hyrax cuddling somewhere between the giant Lobelias...

...also Hyacinth, berries and [ Marylene, plesase fill in correct name :-/ ] are some of the many pretty and unique plants to encounter.

 

 

 

However, the higher we walk the friggin' colder it gets. Once the sun sets at around 7pm there's not much to do than cuddle up in your warm sleeping bag and wait for your eyes close.

But the next morning brings warm sunshine, yummie breakfast, hot tea, and great expectations for the next day!

...which might be very much disappointed if it rains :-(

Finally! Preparations for the final peak day. Some abseiling exercises, just in case.

 

Next day, after getting up at 4am and crumbling up and over rocks, we are rewarded with a great sunrise as we slowly walk with crampons below our feet and an ice ax in our hand over the glacier. Absolutely stunning and -literally- breathtaking.

 

 

 

After six days: The peak, yipphie! All pain, freezing, rain and weariness is forgotten and replaced by spectacular views into Congo :-D

 

 

Then, three days of descent until we reach safely -thanks to our great guides Benard, Uziah and Jimmy- back to our base camp. Time for a hot shower and a couple of days of barefoot :-)

The trek in legs and figures:

Day 1
From Kilembe base camp (1,450m) to Sine Camp (2,596m)
Distance: 10.2km
Duration: 5h

Day 2
From Sine Camp to Mutinda Cave Camp (3,688m)
Distance: 6.8km
Duration: 6h

Day 3
From Mutinda Cave Camp to Bugata Camp (4,062m)
Distance: 4.2km
Duration: 4.5h

Day 4
From Bugata Camp over Bamwanjara Pass (4,450m) then to Hunwick's Camp (3,974m)
Distance: 7.2km
Duration: 7h

Day 5
From Hunwick's Camp to Margherita Camp (4,485m)
Distance: 4.2km
Duration: 3.5h

Day 6
From Margherita Camp to Margherita Peak (5,109m!!) and back to Hunwick's Camp (3,974m)
Distance: 10.6km
Duration: 15h

Start at 4am
Peak at 10.30am
Descent from 11am to 4pm at Margherita Camp, 8pm at Hunwick's Camp

Day 7
From Hunwick's Camp over Bamwanjara Pass (4,450m) then to Bugata Camp (4,062m)
Distance: 7.2km
Duration: 5.5h

Day 8
From Bugata Camp to Kalalama Camp (3,147m)
Distance: 7.4km
Duration: 5h

Day 9
From Kalalama Camp back to Kilembe base camp (1,450m)
Distance:  11.6km
Duration: 4.5h

Oliver!

Of course everyone knows Charles Dickens' Oliver Twist. But did you also know that the novel was turned into a famous musical in 1960 and into a musical film in 1968? I didn't... and while I am learning a lot about Uganda and Africa here, I am learning just as much about the English and their funny ways ;-)

Anyway, the musical is great with the touching story of a young orphan struggling with the hard London street life of the 19th century. Packed with many emotional songs, some witty twists and a thrilling storyline. Leona played one of the kids in the orphanage, held hostage by some ridiculously mean patrons.

Being fed only one tiny bowl of horrible porridge Oliver dares to ask the famous question "Please Sir, can I have some more?" which promptly leads to the orphanage selling him to an undertaker where he gets badly abused.

After a short while he runs away from that horrible place, too, and meets the "Artful Dodger" a London street kid...

 

...who introduces him to Fagin's gang of kid pickpockets. 

 They have a great time hanging out with Nancy, a pretty young woman with great energy and humour; 

 

...but unfortunately she's in love with the most wicked and ruthless criminal in the whole of London: Bill Sykes. Played by, aehm, me :-/

So, Oliver goes through all kinds of hardships and trouble like being caught by the police while trying his new pickpocket skills (and failing), he recovers through the help of a kind gentleman...

 

... but then gets recaptured again by the pitiless Bill Sykes, who kills lovely Nancy in one of his outbursts of fury.

 

 Finally, Bill gets hunted down by the enraged mob and the police, Oliver is freed and all is well that ends well.

Anyway, must have been pretty gruesome cause the newspaper explicitly commented on my part:  Daily Monitor Uganda: "KADS brings fun to Oliver!" But as usual, half the fun is on stage and half the fun is backstage - and I can prove I'm not quite the evil person that everyone in Kampala now thinks I am :-0

Music Nite

Ok, this is the moment when the daddy's chest is in danger to bust - swollen with pride. Every few weeks it is Music Night at the American Recreation Association. Nothing really American about it, it's more the convenience of the place: a small stage is put up, mics are mounted and a DJ plays whatever soundtrack you bring... and sing or dance along. First the kids, then the adults. Anyone welcome - present, future and past talents ;-)

First song, Leona sang with me accompanying her on the piano, and I was certainly the one who was more challenged. Unfortunately the recording is interrupted even before it really starts :-/

But then comes a great quadruple performance by four amazing girls!! But don't listen to me, check it out for yourself:

Kidepo Valley

If you haven't been to Kidepo you haven't seen the best of African landscape and wildlife in Uganda! Daring statement but I' stand for it. We're leaving with a couple of friends and this is the first time my van needs to prove itself on approx. 1,500 km  of rough roads! I've put new tires, added a locally made roof rack, fixed the Air Conditioning and the latest service was done. 

 On they way to the valley we pass signs of past conflicts in the region. Not really encouraging :-/ but fortunately, only the signpost is the only remainder of those times of civil unrest in this area. 

Finally we're entering Kidepo, a valley in the far northern end of Uganda, bordering South-Sudan. It's a beautiful scenery and a natural container of most of the local wildlife species.

And even here, petrol stations exist...

 

...or at least something like it ;-)

 

As we reach the ranger's camp we are welcomed by an elephant who is obviously very, very excited to see us!!

Quickly like never before, we are rewarded for our long drive up here:

This little cutie was actually taking a dust bath right in front of our car :-)

Branches of this bush contain a disinfecting liquid and are a good substitute in case toothpaste is scarce. Not convincing enough for Leona though ;-)

Adrian tries to pick some of the low hanging "sausage fruit", not very tasty for humans, but quite popular with most of the animals. He also discovered their usability as skateboard substitute on dusty slopes!

Taking a break at one of the most beautiful and most expensive lodges in Uganda: Apoka Lodge. Also the only one in Kidepo Valley. On display is an elephant skull and nearly tame antilopes and buffaloes.

However, the lodge is cheating: They've put an artificial water hole right in front of their terrace. Lazy visitors don't even have to move out of their lounge chair to enjoy the spectacular wildlife and scenery. 

We have opted to pitch our tent on the camp site. Definition of camp site: "An area designated for camping." Special features: None, except for a toilet and a water container. Afraid? Not really, the kids are making such a commotion, no lion would dare to come even close

But to be fair, with no maid, no dishwasher, no supermarket, no cooker, basically no nothing around, the kids are turning into great and enthusiastic helpers!

One day we decide to leave the car and take a (guided) nature walk through the savannah. The car looks so lost under that tree :-/  Will we ever get back to our car?

Fortunately, we just meet some smaller fellows, like this warthog, a couple of nasty aggressive termites, colourful and hairy caterpillars,  zebras, antilopes and a close-up examination of the vegetation.

 

Then, it's already time to say good bye to the beautiful valley and  we move on to Moroto, one of the most remote towns in Uganda and one of the most non-touristy places to go to. We've got  the chance to stay in the house of a friend of mine and we're really making the best of it. Having no great expectations, we're just enjoying a very, very relaxed time, caring about nothing but what's for breakfast, what's for lunch and what's for dinner, doing a few modest hill walks, and playing in the garden :-)

Again, as the need arises, the kids turn in amazing housekeepers, shopping, cooking, cleaning, washing..., anything they'd never do at home ;-)  But also I am enjoying this totally relaxed "just worry for the next 5 minutes" atmosphere. Just a few more days like this and we're off again to good old Kampala.