Kidepo Valley

If you haven't been to Kidepo you haven't seen the best of African landscape and wildlife in Uganda! Daring statement but I' stand for it. We're leaving with a couple of friends and this is the first time my van needs to prove itself on approx. 1,500 km  of rough roads! I've put new tires, added a locally made roof rack, fixed the Air Conditioning and the latest service was done. 

 On they way to the valley we pass signs of past conflicts in the region. Not really encouraging :-/ but fortunately, only the signpost is the only remainder of those times of civil unrest in this area. 

Finally we're entering Kidepo, a valley in the far northern end of Uganda, bordering South-Sudan. It's a beautiful scenery and a natural container of most of the local wildlife species.

And even here, petrol stations exist...

 

...or at least something like it ;-)

 

As we reach the ranger's camp we are welcomed by an elephant who is obviously very, very excited to see us!!

Quickly like never before, we are rewarded for our long drive up here:

This little cutie was actually taking a dust bath right in front of our car :-)

Branches of this bush contain a disinfecting liquid and are a good substitute in case toothpaste is scarce. Not convincing enough for Leona though ;-)

Adrian tries to pick some of the low hanging "sausage fruit", not very tasty for humans, but quite popular with most of the animals. He also discovered their usability as skateboard substitute on dusty slopes!

Taking a break at one of the most beautiful and most expensive lodges in Uganda: Apoka Lodge. Also the only one in Kidepo Valley. On display is an elephant skull and nearly tame antilopes and buffaloes.

However, the lodge is cheating: They've put an artificial water hole right in front of their terrace. Lazy visitors don't even have to move out of their lounge chair to enjoy the spectacular wildlife and scenery. 

We have opted to pitch our tent on the camp site. Definition of camp site: "An area designated for camping." Special features: None, except for a toilet and a water container. Afraid? Not really, the kids are making such a commotion, no lion would dare to come even close

But to be fair, with no maid, no dishwasher, no supermarket, no cooker, basically no nothing around, the kids are turning into great and enthusiastic helpers!

One day we decide to leave the car and take a (guided) nature walk through the savannah. The car looks so lost under that tree :-/  Will we ever get back to our car?

Fortunately, we just meet some smaller fellows, like this warthog, a couple of nasty aggressive termites, colourful and hairy caterpillars,  zebras, antilopes and a close-up examination of the vegetation.

 

Then, it's already time to say good bye to the beautiful valley and  we move on to Moroto, one of the most remote towns in Uganda and one of the most non-touristy places to go to. We've got  the chance to stay in the house of a friend of mine and we're really making the best of it. Having no great expectations, we're just enjoying a very, very relaxed time, caring about nothing but what's for breakfast, what's for lunch and what's for dinner, doing a few modest hill walks, and playing in the garden :-)

Again, as the need arises, the kids turn in amazing housekeepers, shopping, cooking, cleaning, washing..., anything they'd never do at home ;-)  But also I am enjoying this totally relaxed "just worry for the next 5 minutes" atmosphere. Just a few more days like this and we're off again to good old Kampala. 

Fasten your seat belt!

I've already commented on the wanting state of Ugandan roads and driving skills... Up to now it's been a phenomenon we've merely been observing, though this time it struck nearby. A colleague of mine was on her way through North-Western Uganda. In Northern Uganda, only two main roads are properly laid with tarmac, everything else are dirt roads (so-called "murram roads") very often featuring the notorious washboard pattern. If you don't want your brain to be turned into jelly, you have to drive either 20 km/h or 80+ km/h. Unfortunately, if you drive 80 km/h and you're unlucky you risk loosing control over your car - similar to my scary experience on the road to Kitgum. 

Though this came out worse :-/

The driver lost control in a curve, the car slid, turned sideways on the road, overturned and finally stopped in a ditch besides the road! These cars are serious and heavily built off road cars, weighing up to 2 tons! Thank god their frame and structure are not the same paper-mâché as the usual saloon cars...! We were all happy that no one got seriously hurt, they all got away with a few bruises and a shock.